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Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:coolbeer: Scenario: TSHTF and your trusty chainsaw has to last a long,long time...firewood,shelter construction,etc.
OK..who owns what brand and why ? Remember replacement parts may not be available,so keep that in mind. What we're trying to nail down is reliability and long term ownership comments from GIM members. What to brands avoid and what models of a particular brand are top dogs. I know we've touched on this subject before...but let's try to nail down the favorite TSHTF GIM approved survival chainsaw winner by popularity. OK...I own a couple different saws ...but only one I would recommend. Stihl 028 AV....built like a tank...reliabilty after 15 years of hard use...100%...not a single breakdown. OK...no Husky and Stihl wars...I own both...the Stihl has never quit. :bear_rolleyes: :bear_rolleyes: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Stihl without a doubt. Own three including a 28.
I even have the big one with the heated handle. Forget the model and I'm not going out to the barn to check right now---It is 2 degrees F here right now. That isn't nearly enough degrees. I've had Homos and Husquas but they aren't like the Stihl--IMHO! CC |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
I've had good luck with my Stihl, as well. My brother in law is a logger, uses only Stihls.
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Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Well chainsaws are nice to have, no doubt, and I agree the Stihl 028 AV is a monster.
But for a real survival situation, where gas and oil may not be readily available, my money is on a GRANSFORS BRUKS axe. They are NOT cheap but EVERYONE should own one and possibly even two. They are the best money can buy and the several that I own have been VERY GOOD TO ME. I wouldnt trade them even for the best chainsaw in the world. http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html http://www.gransfors.com/images/products/axes_all.jpg |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Stihl 028 and 034
The old McCullochs were capable saws. McCullochs were durable and local, so parts may be avail deep in the back country from old timers. They were man saws, no ergonomics to them, heavy, bulky and general pain compared to the newer stuff. I don't know if Husquavarna went global, or cheapened their saws to make the world grade into every retail chain as they are now. Haven't used any of the new ones. Husky always had a good name around here. Stay away? Poulan and Homelite are homeowner types, no long term durability, work fine for cutting a single branch, but other than that, nawwww. There are some trade offs, as the newer have a lot more plastic for weight concerns, vs the steel in days of old. |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
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Don't forget the apron RR. :smokin: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
I've got Poulan and Husky. Poulan is junk of course but light and handy for limbing. The Husky Rancher is clean-burning, very fast cutting, light weight, has a tiny fuel tank and is finicky about starting and running. I'm trying Stiel next.
My Husky runs on 50:1, the leanest I've had yet. It would be hard to go back to 40:1, I don't need that much smoke in my lungs. For smaller chainsaws I was wondering about Echo. Are They good? |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:ARMS1: Thanks guys...we're rolling.
My other saws....Husky 353 and an Echo CS 5100 I sort of lean towards the 46 cc and up models for tougher jobs and raw power. Husky puked the oil pump 3 months after I bought it. Echo...absolutely no problems. Value for the money ?...the Echo would beat the Stihl. My brother bought an Echo ( Around 50cc ) equal to my Stihl 028 the same day I bought my Stihl...so far zero problems...Echo makes a tough saw. Well..the Stihls are winning so far.... KG...I hope that's not a family photo... :haha: :haha: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
I'd have to say that we'd all be better off with a selection of saws and axes. Like Sukhoi said, what about when you can't get gas?
(I have a Husqvarna 26 - treat it like crap, but it always starts and runs strong.) |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:cool2: Agreed on the axes and small tools of destruction.
2 True Temper double bit axes. 4 True Temper hatchets 2 True Temper Bush axes 2 Large size Bowsaws 2 Small size Bowsaws 4 Gerber Folding Saws I take no chances...gasoline might disappear. :cool2: :cool2: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
In an emergency pinch - my Milwukee Sawzall (w/ rough-in blades) and any old 1000 watt inverter.
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Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Since I can't really afford a stihl, it's better to have one then not at all.
I've got a Poulan 4218 that's 42cc, 18" bar. I've cut 14" diameter trees down with it and lots of limbs. Even the cheapest 2 stroke engine should be good for 500 hrs actual run time if you take reasonable care of it. Average life should be 1000 hrs. I've only used mine for about 6 hrs of actual run time so far, you can cut a lot of wood in 6 hrs! If I even get 200 hrs of run time out of it, I'll be happy. I just bought a chain file, a spare chain and a gallon of chain oil. I should be good to go for many more hours of cutting. Oh, I also have one good axe and one old one (the one I loan to neighbors) :yes: Peace TLM |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
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EDit: No, on second thought it was more like 100 hours each. |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:party9: TLM...
OK,so you got a Poulan 4218...a newer version of the Poulan Pro 260...not a bad saw...be glad you didn't buy a Wildthing... Neighbor of mine has a PP 260 and a PP 295...the PP260 outlasted the PP295... The bar and chain on all the Poulans has always been their weak point...they are thinner and can be bent if you're not careful...buy an extra bar for hard times. Mix your 2 cycle fuel a little on the heavy side...Poulans tend to wear the cylinder walls and piston rings quickly under heavy use otherwise. Might smoke a little extra but it's worth it... :cool2: :cool2: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
RR,
Don't forget the full set of stones and files for sharpening. Wasn't there a foot driven grinding wheel available quite some time ago. No power required other than your foot? |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
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I'm using synthetic 2-stroke oil, hopefully it will give less wear. Peace TLM |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:cool2: Lessons learned the hard way....
Any chainsaw that has a high rpm mix adjustment(some don't) should be manually set to run slightly on the rich side. Running high rpms at factory settings (lean) is a fast trip back to the repair shop for a ring and piston job. Yeah,yeah...the EPA makes the factory do it...I know. True...but loggers and pro tree trimmers like em rich on the top end to prevent cylinder scorching and extend overall life. I set all of my saws top end rich and have yet to have a compression loss even after years of serious cutting.Never had a plug foul... My Stihl 028 probably has 800 hours on it...so I'll go with the pro's advice. Now that Electrolux owns Poulan and Husky I look for the Huskys to go straight down the toilet...sad..the Swedish built Huskys were tough saws. My local dealer told me the factory in Sweden was shut down and manufacturing moved to China...don't know how true that is. My Husky 353 says Made in Sweden...so it got under the wire. :beer: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:cool2: Right you are Scorp.
As cheap as files and a sharpening handle/jig are it would pay everyone to buy a couple for hard times. Be careful...lot's of different chain pitches require different diameter files. Buy several different diameter round files in case your chain is not a standard pitch. Different brands use different types of teeth. :cool2: :cool2: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
I had been using Quicksilver 2 cycle oil in my chainsaws for years. My Husky manual said that I should NOT use the 2 cycle oil designed for outboard boat motors. I thought Quicksilver was the best.
What is the best 2 cycle oil for use in 50:1 chainsaws? |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
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It should be noted that the word "lean" has two contexts when applied to 2 cycle engines. It can refer to the carburetor mixture meaning the relation between fuel mix and air and it can also refer to the oil and fuel mixture in the tank. I was a mechanic for many years but I really don't know squat about 2 cycles. But it would seem to me that enriching the mixture in the tank (more oil) would be more beneficial in terms of wear than enriching the mixture in the carburetor (more gas/oil mix). Just theory. |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Bender,
too funny, those things were a beast. I like the smaller stuff for what we are talking of, easier to transport and use less fuel inputs. Got a two man so you and I can fell the big stuff. Problem is, we would both be pulling at the same time :0) |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
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Follow this link, it shows Amsoil's recommendations for their 2 stroke oils. They say that their outboard oil is "not" recommended for chainsaws! They have a couple of other oils that they do recommend |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:cool2: Hoarder...you are correct...more oil = less wear.
Some carbs have a MASTER jet/needle for air/fuel mix ratio in addition to a low idle jet/needle and a high speed jet/needle. Where the rub comes in is with leaning out the top air/fuel mixture too lean...starves the combustion for adequate fuel mix to COOL the cylinder walls and piston ring. Cool being the key word here... Check your string trimmer/weed whacker for tiny adjustment screws... All my Echos have three jets...master/low/high and a separate idle adjustment. All three of my saws have the same setup...low/high/master. Some models they skip the high and just give you master/low... In lieu of adjustment jets...mix your gas/oil richer...factory may recommend 40/1 or 50/1 but I run everything at 36/1 ....a little rich but everything runs cooler with less wear. Just my experience with 2 cycle engines overall. Best 2 cycle oil ? Nothing beats Hondaline....used it in dirt bikes for years...cleanest burning 2 cycle oil I have ever found....zero carbon in smaller 2 cycles like weed whackers and chainsaws even after years of use. I buy it by the case at the Honda motorcycle shop. :cool2: :cool2: |
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If so, that's a new one on me, but not unbelievable. Thanks for the info on needle adjustments. |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Echo 550 650 and comps, also under the John Deere name for a bit. Tough.
Husky is good and new ones have chain brake but the tank is plastic. Agree on rich mixes, and in a problem, files, bar oil, etc may be the things that are hardest to get. Bar oil is special, anyone remember the substitues? I think 50wt worked, but bar oil has additives. About no gasoline, let me tell you something: if there were only ONE device that got to use gasoline after peak oil, it should be the chainsaw. You can cut more in 15 minutes than you could in a day of handwork. That said, professional electric chainsaws could be used with a generator-device. As long as you're tugging the cord, there is a safety question. However, they stop when released and gasoline doesn't always. Even electrics need oil, bar oil. TS Anyone remember the canvas-belt buzz-saw days? |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:cool2: Damn hoarder you're fast...picked that one up quick.
Yes...running the top end rich = cooler operating temperatures. More fuel...less air...= more liquid cooling effect on the overall combustion chamber temperatures. Cooler=longer life. :cool2: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
I've always used a 50:1 Stihl oil in the small bottles say they are for 2 1/2 gallons of gas. And I've always used a 2 gallon can to mix that in. My theory is you have a hard time getting ALL the oil out of a little bottle, and the little extra richness by cutting out that 1/2 gallon doesn't hurt. Run my saws 30 years this way and never burned a piston or rings.
Stihl used to be top of the line.....some models are still excellent, some are more crappy. I owned an 041 originally bought new in 1976.....finally replaced it in the late 90's due to parts being hard to get for it anymore....was running fine when I sold it. Replaced it with an 046 Magnum which I still have, BUT the handle design on it is C-R-A-P !! See pic from the Stihl website ( they now call them MS 460....same saw ) http://www.stihl.us/graphics/chainsaws/MS460.gif This is a "pro" saw according to them. Notice the top handle bar as it wraps around the side.....the bar terminates there about 1/2 way down the side of the saw. That "side" is the gas tank, which is plastic. The idiot that designed this has TWO SHEET METAL SCREWS GOING IN THE SIDE OF A PLASTIC GAS TANK. Can you imagine what happens IF you hit the top of the handle bar with a fair amount of force ? Like you drop the saw and it lands handbar down ? I'll tell you. It shears those damned screws out and the gas tank starts leaking. I've done it twice.....once I hung the saw in a tree as it came down, and it applies what I wouldn't consider much force against the bar......nuther time I dropped a block of firewood on the bar top while the saw was sitting on the ground. In EITHER case, the most damage that should have occured was a slightly bent handle bar.....in BOTH cases, it was a 200 buck repair to open up the saw and replace the gas tank. Now look at their "less pro" line....take an MS 280 ( the old 028 ) http://www.stihl.us/graphics/chainsaws/MS280.gif See how the handle bar sort of 'disappears' into the frame of the saw.....it actually goes around under the bottom and will take MANY MANY times the shock of the 046 bar with no damage. Heck, the handle bar on my wifes 021 is built more solid than the one on my 046 !! It's a shame when you can depend on a name anymore......you really have to study what you are buying and try to figure out if they've cheapened it to the point of uselessness. |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
:cool2: TS...I forgot my 2 electrics....
1 really old Craftsman tank...16" bar...runs great 1 so,so not quite as old Remington...14" bar...runs great. I actually never thought about them until you mentioned it. That is certainly an option if you have a generator and/or a source of 115V power.Good thinking ! Still need bar oil...they are both quite as hell...weird cutting firewood with an electric.Sort of like using a Monster SawsAll...:>) The Craftsman is about 4 hp...pretty strong for an old electric. :cool2: :cool2: |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
Don't forget a way to split all that wood you've cut. Here's what I use:
http://www.braveproducts.com/images/itemimages/m10.jpg Splitting Maul M-10 15 lb. overall weight, 10 lb. head, 30” overall length, steel handle, cushion grip The cushion grip sucks and will come off with use. I removed it, put a wood plug in the handle, and plasti dipped it. Otherwise an excellent tool. Made by Brave Products, Inc. |
Re: Chainsaw Wars...Best Survival Chainsaw ?
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Here's Amsoil's reccommendation: Saber Professional Synthetic, 100:1 Pre-Mix 2-Cycle Oil New AMSOIL Saber Professional Synthetic 2-Cycle Oil is specifically designed for lean mix ratios in pre-mix applications. Saber Professional contains high temperature detergents for small power equipment. Extensive testing shows superior lubricity and cleanliness properties at lean mix ratios with this premium synthetic formulation. Saber Professional (ATP) is specifically designed for small engines including, but not limited to, chain saws, lawn equipment, blowers, chop saws, pumps, scooters and go-carts. If it's good and can be run anywhere near 100:1, it would be worth the $9 a quart not to have to breathe that much smoke. |
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